Condor Wines invited a group of independents to put a selection of its top Chilean wines through their paces, alongside a discussion of how best to sell the category to consumers
In June, a group of indies came together at the Embassy of Chile to taste a selection of the country’s premium wines. Hosted by South American specialist Condor Wines, it made for a stimulating and delicious morning, rounded off with a lunch of Chilean specialities.
Just for fun, and to see whether Chilean premium wines deliver at their price point, Condor selected three wines to be tasted blind. This wasn’t about identifying grapes, but getting a feel for what the wines are worth. There were three suggested price brackets: £10 to £20, £20 to £30 and £30+.
Condor and the team at Viña Requingua would be delighted with a near unanimous view that their Carménère/Cabernet Sauvignon was worth more than its £16.49 RRP, with most putting it in the £20 to £30 bracket. Guests described it as “absolutely delicious”, “spicy and structured”, with “white and black pepper, nutty notes … very much a Cabernet / Carménère blend.”
Equally, nearly everyone picked out the Dagaz Kolwe Cabernet Sauvignon as the most complex and priciest (£34.29). “The most intriguing for me, having structurally the most to offer with great length,” said Mario Sposito of Bedales.
This was a view echoed by Charlotte Dean of Wined Up Here, who described it as “the most complex of the wines, but it needs time to develop”.
Discussing the prices generally, the merchants felt that Chile offers good value for money. “People will pay the money for these wines … it’s important that they look the part, and that there are stories behind the wines,” said Gosia Wegier of Dulwich Vintners. “Nobody ever says they don’t like Chilean wine, in the way that they can do with, say, France. But Chile is quite difficult to explain to people.”
For those who have been selling wines since Chile first made an appearance on the UK market (and it was possible to buy three bottles for £10), there was an awareness that it is the role of independents to show what the country has to offer at the premium end.
In a free-ranging discussion as how best to do this, there was a lot of talk of the need for a cultural handle; an easy connection for consumers.
Grapes were an obvious starter for 10. With the Argentina/Malbec story so strong, it was felt that Chile could be doing more in a similar vein. “Pais is Beaujolais-esque, it can be served chilled and offers the sort of style of red that customers are asking for,” said Jakub Balsamski of Hedonism Wines.
Gosia Wegier added: “Chile needs to focus on something – Pais, Carménère – and to make it clear why customers should be looking at Chile over other countries.”
There were positive comments about the diversity and innovation on show in the 13-strong line-up. Smaller-scale producers such as Matt Ridgway and his wife Ana, at La Despensa Boutique, have a compelling story to tell alongside their impressive wines: characterful field blends from diverse varieties (including Sangiovese), and their much-admired Pais.
Though operating on a much greater scale, the Lurton family have delivered a commercially-sound orange wine in Naranjo. The merchants agreed it has the potential to be a good seller, despite being in a competitive market.
The pressure on old-world regions, such as Burgundy, offers Chile’s Chardonnay wines a useful opportunity. The feedback on the Tectonia Chardonnay was particularly positive in terms of the quality and value it offers. Aaron Irons from Condor was quick to point out that Chile has “an embarrassment of old vines” and this is a further message to underpin Chile’s credentials as an alternative for lovers of old-world wines.
Charlotte Dean felt that “lifestyle marketing could be stronger, and is more important than banging on about soil types”. The view was echoed by fellow indies, who added that the immense scale of Chile meant that hooks around food and wine pairings could be a more straightforward way to talk about the wines, rather than subregions and individual vineyard terroir.
Cue a spot of lunch and a delicious spread of Chilean cuisine. With open bottles on the table, and plates being filled, some tempting combinations weren’t long in the making.
The Lolol Single Vineyard White Blend proved to be a great match for the ceviche. The pastel de choclo – a meat pie, with a sweetcorn topping – had a spicy, savoury flavour that worked a treat with the Toro de Piedra Carignan. Of course, there had to be empanadas, and truthfully any of the reds were a delight to drink with them. Mini alfajor – a dangerously moreish chocolate sandwich cake – didn’t necessarily find its wine match on the day, but customers would be knocking down the doors in a rush to eat them should a Chilean wine and food event ever be on the cards.
It was an immensely enjoyable tasting that left a strong impression that the future of premium Chilean wine is bright. The task now is to settle on a narrative that will lead consumers to these wines.
Contact Aaron Irons at Condor on 07715 671914 or visit condorwines.co.uk
