Nic Rezzouk of Reserve Wines in Greater Manchester argues there are opportunities for indies
As an industry – and as individuals – I believe we need to take the no- and low-alcohol (NoLo) category seriously.
We’ve all lamented the seemingly unstoppable decline in wine consumption in the UK. But let’s not kid ourselves – it’s not just wine. Pure alcohol consumption has been steadily decreasing since 20091.
Simultaneously, we’ve faced repeated challenges: rising taxes, supply chain disruption and inflationary pressures, all of which have chipped away at our beloved RRPs. Blaming the government has become a convenient default – partly because it’s easier than alienating our customers further. And let’s face it, freak events like Covid or distant geopolitical crises are well beyond our control.
But price increases alone don’t explain this consumption trend. I think there’s something deeper at play.
A decade in wine
Having joined the wine-led retail and hospitality sector 10 years ago (and still feeling like a freshman), I’ve witnessed significant progress across many areas of our industry. From where I stand, however – both professionally and personally – our relationship with alcohol still has room for improvement. Without delving too deeply into my own introspection, would it be triggering, or even erroneous, to suggest some of us may have entered this trade to justify an unhealthy love of drink … at least on some level?
Moderation is gaining traction as a path forward. Pauline Vicard’s thoughtful piece on Areni Global2 is one example of how the topic is being embraced. And the Wine in Moderation movement, while still in its infancy, is starting to gain momentum. That said, the conversation often feels tentative, if not quite taboo anymore.
Pauline, courageously, evokes aspects from her personal story to substantiate her point. However I suspect some of you reading my words today might feel … sceptical? As someone who shares parts of Pauline’s back story, I know first-hand how challenging it is to maintain a balanced approach to drinking. It requires constant vigilance. And I know I’m not alone.
A personal perspective
I’m 42, a father to two young boys who test my emotional resilience daily. My wife and I are equally invested in running our home and raising our children while pursuing ambitious professional goals. In recent years, my body and mind have sent unmistakable signals: drinking the way I used to is incompatible with the life I want.
And yet, like many, I enjoy (need?) a nice treat when I get home. And most often, it takes the shape of a drink. Recently, though, I found some solace in exploring the growing array of creative, alcohol-free options: kombuchas, alcohol-free cocktails and, yes, even some no-alcohol wines. It’s not a replacement; no question about that. But it helps take the itch away. I spike my Botivo with more ACV, ginger kombucha and two drops of angostura bitters and the evening is off.
Our customers feel it too
Our customers face similar pressures. Financial constraints have tightened household budgets, and businesses everywhere are being forced to innovate simply to stay afloat. The demand to “train up, work smarter, be sharper” applies to all of us and, evidently, drinking five bottles of wine a week does not align with those goals.
Social media compounds the pressure with messages like: “Want to succeed? Be more attractive, fitter, funnier …?” Whether or not we succumb to these influences, the boom in gyms popping up in every neighbourhood tells its own story. From managing calorie intake to maintaining physical health, alcohol has become an obvious target.
And then there’s mental health. Covid, lockdowns and nationwide productivity struggles have finally pushed this critical issue into the mainstream. Adverts for online therapy and psychological support are everywhere – a sign that society is taking mental health more seriously as much as an acknowledgement it is more of an issue than ever before. Once again, alcohol complicates rather than alleviates these challenges.
The NoLo opportunity
Against this backdrop, it’s no surprise that customers are increasingly curious about alcohol-free options. At Reserve Wines, alcohol-free is one of the few categories showing steady growth. It’s not a tidal wave, but the trend is unmistakable.
Personally, I don’t choose alcohol-free options as often as I should – but as a buyer and a responsible parent, I’m committed to exploring this category further. Supporting innovative products that keep life fun at the table while enabling me to get up early, go for a run, and be present for my kids.
This is a chance for our industry to embrace change. By taking NoLo seriously, we can meet customers where they are, support healthier lifestyles, and perhaps even future-proof our businesses.
1 drinkaware.co.uk/research/alcohol-facts-and-data/alcohol-consumption-uk
2 areni.global/what-is-moderation-anyway